A little more work

Some time ago I wanted to compare the relative yellowness of various oils. Additionally, I duplicated the comparison so as to keep one in sunlight, the other darkened. While building these samples I really didn't pay attention to the thickness of applied oils, making my test a bit skewed. But, the difference between light and dark is more significant than I would have imagined.

After a good start over a week ago, I'd slipped away from my brushes. At this point I'm simply blocking in with minimal form and detail.

Oil Testing

Here's the beginning of a little oil test, nine samples as follows:

The first four from Natural Pigments:

• Aged Linseed Oil
• Pale Grinders Oil (High-Acid Refined Linseed Oil)
• Vacuum-Bodied Oil (Low Viscosity, Linseed)
• Sun-Thickened Aged Linseed Oil (handmade from above oil)

The next five from Jedwards International:

• Cold Pressed Organic Linseed Oil (source oil for washed and reclaimed below)
• Hand-Washed Oil - Batch 1
• Hand-Washed Oil - Batch 2
• Reclaimed Oil
• Safflower Oil

Click image for a better view

Using cotton swabs I dabbed these oils across strips of masonite prepped with GAC 100 and Acrylic Gesso. Once the oils dry I will keep one in the sun, one in the dark. How long will each oil take to dry? Will it yellow, or even lighten, over time? We'll see. I'll be keeping watch and taking notes, presenting results from time to time.

Filtering Oil

While skimming oil for another round of washing there is always a bit left behind. That oil - fatty acid barrier is not always distinct and one must make the decision when to stop and leave the leftovers for later.

The leftovers get dumped into my reclamation oil jar, which was recently washed up a few times and considered done. Only thing is that the result was terribly cloudy, still holding onto those fatty acids and probably some water as well.

I've had this idea mulling about that I could filter this stuff...

The funnel tube is plugged from end to end with a cotton ball. The funnel is friction fit into a piece of corrugated cardboard. Hi tech, huh? ;-) Well, it works so absolutely perfectly well! That cloudy mess is coming out crystal clear!

It is taking time--a few hours to get less than the two ounces you see here, but I see no worries. This looks like one of those set 'em and forget 'em procedures.

Using Studio Oil

Last night I played with Umber and Lead White, mixing a tonal string to grade out a background. It was an on the fly decision so it's a bit rough here. After dropping in some initial values, I mixed the paints with a bit of my studio oil. My paints became smoother and with grab. Colors are more saturated. Dries in less than a day. I like it a lot.

Here is that same smooth finish and same lighting reflecting overhead fluorescents. (I changed my viewing angle to find the glare axis.) Is this a problem? I don't know. What would the glare would look like with multiple light sources?

Notice the lower left border in both photos, that patchiness. It's an area I'd gone over with pure umber paint, no studio oil. The first patch loses saturation and transparency; the second reduces glare.

No real judgements here, just observations.

Driving out the water

Here is my first batch with salt rinsing complete, ready for an application of heat to drive out the water.

As the oil warmed, some separation seemed to be taking place.

Now the water is beginning to boil out from the oil.

There were a couple of disturbing pops when larger pockets of steam released. The oil was beginning to noticeably clear and I became more aggressive with the heat. Bad move. All of a sudden, the volcano exploded. Hot oil everywhere. Lucky for me most of it went straight up. Burned my hand a bit and a few spots on my head but I was very lucky.

What a freaking mess! Oil everywhere! From the floor to the ceiling. My clothes are in the wash. The kitchen is cleaned up. Only about 4 ounces of oil remains. And, my pride is reasonably intact.

It's right there in Tad's email to me from a couple of days ago:

"When you're heating it at the end to remove the water, go easy on the heat. If it starts to spit or erupt from trapped water escaping, lower the heat."

Duh. There it is. I am reminded of sound advice from my programming days: RTFM.

I have a double batch moving into the rinse cycle. Soon I'll be back to the stove, this time with new found respect. But for tonight, let me celebrate my luck and education with a bit of scotch, and some aloe.

Washing Linseed Oil Continues

Daily oil work continues. This photo was taken prior to yesterday's work.

3rd wash settled, 2nd wash settled.

The first batch has moved from wash to rinse. Basically the same process but leaving out the sand and marble dust. The idea here is to wash the salt from the oil.

After first round washing the final oil skim that contains break and water goes into my reclamation jar. This stuff can be used in the next first round wash for no waste.

The jar on the right is less than an hour after shaking. The oil and break is still separating and the break is still hours from settling to the bottom.

2nd rinse, reclamation, 3rd wash settling.

Tad warns that the mason jars are heat sensitive. I held that in mind last night while putting up my first rinse. The water was a bit hotter than usual but I didn't detect any problems. Alas, today there was a small puddle around the jar. I will need to be more careful. I was certainly lucky this jar didn't break while shaking. I usually shake with the jar toweled up but it still could have been messy if not dangerous.

Cracked mason jar.

Oil work will continue here, even if this post topic fades. I think I've covered most of the processing steps.  I have concern over finding break in the 2nd rinse oil. I just shook it up again and hope for better results. If not, I'll ask Tad what he thinks.

Once the oil is fully washed we'll be looking at methods to remove residual water. And after that, we'll begin building oils with various rheological behaviors. More to come!

Washing Linseed Oil Continued

This second wash settled out nearly as nicely as the first. Notice the bit of break hanging down below the oil.

Second wash settled.

Now that I'm getting the swing of things, I figured why not start up a double batch. It's really just as easy to handle a few batches at once.

Two new batches and third wash, just after shaking.

Tomorrow my first oil will be ready for water and sand only washes to flush out the salt.

Washing Linseed Oil

For some time I have been following the work Tad Spurgeon. His work is so deep, so comprehensive, that I ask that if you're at all interested as an oil painter, to do check out his site. I can't begin to describe his extensive research. There is also lots of wonderful and interestingly narrated paintings.

Over the past few months I've been assembling the ingredients and containers to try my hand at washing linseed oil. Swimming pool filter sand is hard to come by when the snow flies! Not shown is the linseed oil but you can check it out here. For information on Tad's thoughts on oil and its washing, see this.

Marble dust, half gallon mason canning jar, pool filter sand, salt.

I mixed these ingredients:

• 2 cups linseed oil
• 4 cups hot water
• 3/4 cup salt
• 1 tablespoon marble dust (150-300µ)

and shook them up. This is what it looks like right after shaking. Within a minute the sand begins falling. Next the oil begins to rise, the salt water to clear.

Right after being shaken.

Upon resting overnight, the separation is complete. After taking this photo, I removed the oil and restarted the process with the very same oil. After three washings with the above ingredients, there will be water and sand only washings to flush out the salt.

Overnight rest.

I am so excited to finally be at this point! Watch over the next few days as this cloudy orange oil becomes transparent, brighter and yellower. Well, that's the plan any way. :-)

Studio Oil

Shortly before the Cornell course began, I poured a half inch layer of linseed oil into one of these half pint canning jars. I left it hanging around the kitchen, no special treatment at all.

The sample on the right is my control, regular linseed oil. On the left is my canning jar oil. Amazing the color change, eh? I need to do more work on this as it's not clear if this transparency will last in bottle or painting. But beyond the color, this new oil now has more body. It's supposed to behave like a stand oil in its smoothing and leveling properties, but to be a fast drier, unlike the stand oil that can take days to a week to lose tackiness. (Testing underway!)

I'd like to publish weekly reviews of the online course for weeks 3-6 but, to tell you the truth, I just couldn't resist getting back to my old ways. :-)